TOKYOEYE: 12 short stories


12 Japanese fashion brands presented their SS2016 collections at TRANOÏ FEMME. Armand Hadida and Cindy Ho are the two French fashion experts who have been called to come and advise the brands - sometimes severely - in order to take part to this event. The designers of the 12 different brands, sometimes by pair, all have already a remarkable background, sometimes abroad, due to their studies or the interventions they made at major houses or important artists.

A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT-CHIKA KISADA-DRESSEDUNDRESSED From left to right: A Degree Fahrenheit, Chika Kisada, Dressedundressed.


Yu Amatsu uses the US temperature unit to name his brand. Every season, he chooses a "degree" to work on his collection. The feeling of the designer is influenced by the temperature when he creates the designs. This season, Amatsu worked on a medium temperature "smoke" (=80°F). Amatsu designs his own jacquards and fabrics. Amatsu has been elected as the best designer in 2010 for Shimai Creator's Project. He also works as costume designer for Patti Smith and Flo Rida. This season, he worked on an amazing fabric made with two layers of lace.

Focus: a very comfortable combi-trousers with wide legs, short sleeves. The waist is open in the back. The fabric is soft and the pattern designed by Amatsu.


Chika Kisada studied ballet from ages 3 to 19 and obtained many awards and honors. Kisada then studied fashion and established her first brand Rekisami in 2007 and her second brand Chika Kisada in 2014. The SS16 collection resumes the sensibilities of the designer. She wanted to design the beautiful movement of ballet dresses combined with a touch of "rock attitude". Biker jackets have silk pleated linings, some dresses are proposed with leather harnesses, and wide pants have leather straps. She proposes also three pieces with hand-braided color leather.

Focus: an amazing skirt in white fabric, designed like a scottish kilt with two panels of hand-braided leather string.


In 2006, Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato became opening directors for the cutting edge shop Candy in Tokyo. In 2009, they founded their own label Dressedundressed. In 2012, they presented their first show in MFW in Tokyo. The next year, they were one of the 6 finalists of the International Woolmark Prize. The concept of their work is based on opposites: woman/man, beauty/ugliness, darkness/light... All the fabrics are made-in-Japan, and the designers are very attentive to the hand-made finishings. Two collections similar but not identical for men and women.

Focus: a long summer coat in white canvas with a col tailleur and white stitch.

IN-PROCESS-KICS DOCUMENT.-KOI From left to right: In-Process, Kics Document., Koi.


In-Process is the brainchild of Central Saint Martins graduates Steven Hall and Yurika Ohara, who are known for their playfully expressive print and textile design. Based in Tokyo and showing at JFW since AW10/11, In-Process have won a lot of awards. The brand not only creates garments, but also a whole range of goods including shoes, bags, scarves, umbrellas. For SS16, the collection expresses a dreamlike notion of safari aesthetic. The print work portrays a hand painted feeling contrasted with a collage feeling. The woven fabrics inspired by african jacquards provide a textural touch. All the shapes of garments are simple in order to focus on the fabrics and prints.

Focus: Sleveless coat (in french patelot) in a unique and playfull jacquard that would fit perfectly for a shopping afternoon in Milano.


Kanako Takeishi is the designer of Kics Documents. A graduate of Nihon University of Art, Takeishi learned fashion business and men's tailoring at F.I.T in New York. She started her brand Kics Document in 2012 and launched men's collection. All fabrics, buttons, pattern-making, sewing and finishing are made using the highest techniques of japanese craftsmanship. Kanako Takeishi wants to preserve and pass down all these techniques to next generations and spread her design and philosophy around the world. For SS16 she launches her first women collection, with only shirts, pants and shorts.

Focus: wide pants in off white linen with old style shirt worn with off white bow tie. Perfect outfit for a sunday afternoon in Yoyogi.


Koi is a brand designed by Nobuhide Koi, graduated from Parsons School of Design. At the beginning of his career, he worked for Bill Blass, Prada and Versace. He loves nature, oceans and japanese culture and combines them with japanese traditional craftsmanship. His SS16 collection is inspired by "resort and spa", elegance, vacation, cocktail hour by the pool. Two parts in the collection: one in white fabric only with a focus of 3D vs 2D with stitchings, straps, and darts. The other with silk cocktail dresses.

Focus: a double cocktail dress, pleated, in silk with nature patterns, string shoulder straps, perfect to have a good time with a glass of champagne by the pool in a resort in Bali.

MIDDLA-MOTOHIRO TANJI-MONOTARIONO From left to right: Middla, Motohiro Tanji, Monotariono.


Ohal Ando, born in 1972, graduated from Waseda University in 1999. He established different brands before launching Middla in 2014. Middla speaks about 'One Tokyo Usual', the standard and classical items mixed with the elements of music, mathematic and poetic story. The SS16 collection is called 'Trans-Marine' and based on navy uniforms twisted in a unusual way. The classic dress worn in the navy becomes a pant-dress in a popeline patchwork, the skirt turns into a camo jacquard skirt with navy buttons, worn with a sailor blouse in striped flannel. The collection has many details, as an homage to Tom Browne's work and Kawakubo's work.

Focus: a dress designed like a uniform shirt with patchwork of different popelines in blue shades. It seems to be classical but actually very punchy and modern.


Motohiro Tanji studied at Keio University in Japan and Nottingham Trent University in UK. He established his own brand in summer 2013. Motohiro Tanji is an experimental knitwear label that creates unique textures through knit fabrics using both hand (domestic knitting machine) and knitting factories to form balanced all-knits looks from accessories to total coordinates. The designer proposes this season some commercial knitwear produced in knitting factories and unique items made by hand on domestic knitting machines. Both have inventive 3D shapes and patterns.

Focus: an amazing hand-made dress in cream color with a 3D front.


Born in 1981, Monotari Ono is graduated from Mejiro Design School in 2002. After graduating at London College of Fashion in London in 2003, he enrolled in the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In 2007, he established the brand Monotariono. He suggests a classic romantic fashion with luxury although being delicate. His credo: "make the body of woman look beautiful". He uses tailoring methods and techniques of men to express his style. For SS16, he proposes short dresses in soft and technical fabrics, lace, and abundance of details. Tailored medium blue trench with white pipping and logo buttons.

Focus: a white summer sleevless dress in popeline with a big flounce. Lace is stitched inside the armholes as on part on the back. Small white buttons look like mini candies. Top of the luxury with the look of a young lady.

ROGGYKEI-SOMARTA-UEMULO MUNENOLI From left to right: Roggykei, Somarta, Uemulo Munenoli.


Roggykei is created by the two designers Hitoshi and Keiko, who are based in Osaka. They studied pattern-making in Osaka Fashion Design Academy. They started their brand in 2006. They showed their work at Seoul Fashion Week in 2014. For both of them, "accessories as clothes and clothes as accessories". When worn, there is no border between them, clothes can be a part of an accessory, accessory can be part of clothes by coexisting. Roggykei proposes this season SS16 a line of clothes with asian shapes like fisherman pants and circle shaped shirt, all made in linen. Sequins clutches are reversible and available in different sizes. Huge chains made with hand-braided black and white leather can be worn on shirts.

Focus: a circle shaped shirt in black linen evoking the "Vitruvian Man", to be worn with a huge and heavy chain in hand-braided leather.

SOMARTA Somarta is a brand presented at JFW since 2007. The brand won this year the Newcomer's Prize at Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix. Somarta Skin Series is a line of high quality bodywear based on the "Second Skin" concept. Designed to fit perfectly the body, the seamless production method creates "no stress from stitches" knitwear and elegant and tatoo-like minute patterns and a new sense of liberated beauty. Only three factories in Japan are able to produce this kind of knitwear. The brand provides tops, dresses, tights and tank tops.

Focus: a three-quarter-sleeve dress in grey, very light, elegant with jacquards on both sides and lace on the sleeves


Munenori Uemuro is a graduate from IED (Istituto Europeo Design) in Milan . He worked for Costume National, 0044 Paris, Jil Sander, and Raf Simons before returning to Japan in 2011 and launching his own brand of shirts. In 2011, he won the 1st Tokyo New Fashion Grand Prix, Professional's Prize and Opening Ceremony Award. His first collection in 2012 was an exclusive shirts line. For SS16 he proposes shirts, dresses, and coats, feminine, simple, geometric, in white, sky blue, ink blue in beautiful popeline 120 or canvas 80.

Focus: a coat but a shirt, but a dress, but a safari jacket. All in one for different purposes, different moments, to stay feminine, modern, simple, elegant and casual.

—Judith Girard-Marczak