Clockwise, from top left; SEMPERVIVUM, JEANNE DE ST MARTIN, RUE DU DRAGON, LA MÉRICAINE.
Graduates of ENSAD (National School of Decorative Arts in Paris), French designers Baudoux Gilles and Lola Thébault Royet formed SEMPERVIVUM in 2014 after their Ethical Fashion project was spotted for the first time during Parisian design festival ‘Designers Days’ and they decided to form and develop the concept of Zero Waste as a business.
Produced in their Parisian workshop, the line Sempervivum is seen as a unisex ‘dressing-room’, where the designers have the freedom to create their vision of a garment, from design to production, containing their dreams and beliefs. The entire Sempervivum ‘dressing-room’ is designed around patterns developed in their workshop and generate no waste production. Simply put: one metre of cloth = T Shirt = zero waste. All Sempervivum patterns are puzzles that fit in the rectangle imposed by the width, and where all the material is used to make clothing. This is the design constraint that created Sempervivum. Materials with care, working with the Irish and their spun flax and wool; the Japanese that preserve exceptional expertise with their suspended knitting, and the French that create jobs in our area. Sempervivum offers a set of pieces developed without genre, taking account of the morphological particularities of the male or female body without the highlights, so that clothes can also be worn by men and women. Their desire for freedom is expressed also in the emancipation against considerations of femininity and masculinity in making standard clothing. One size chart, one line; Mr. and Mrs. Sempervivum are free and equal.
Minimum and Modernist, the FW16 collection takes on sharp colours represented in colour-blocking, with cold toned accents in an urban world of muted material.
JEANNE DE ST MARTIN
Launched in 2015, JEANNE DE ST MARTIN is feminine fashion brand, 100% made in France, with an androgynous style that flirts with a masculine allure. Made from classic and silky materials, the cuts are as comfortable as there are timeless, but most importantly of great quality.
Designer Jeanne Pasanisi finds her inspirations are fuelled by her travels, family, friends and by the daily style of the French woman, discreet but precious. She designs for the timeless woman, who has a habit of mix brands, with her own style, and likes to have collections of special pieces in her wardrobe, clothes which she holds and she keep. The woman who loves to mix styles and even sometimes wear clothes from a man’s wardrobe.
The inspiration of the FW1617 collection to be presented at Tranoï Femme is a young and sassy New Yorker from the 70s, dreaming of freedom, comfort, softness and modernity. The metamorphosis of a modern woman in a day thanks to the fine fabrics and masculine tailoring reworked by the Jeanne de St Martin woman. Highlighted in all their forms, the joyful mix of wool and cashmere proposed in this collection is an almost surreal balance through these knits that are increasingly part of the Jeanne de St Martin wardrobe.
RUE DU DRAGON
Working as an architect in an agency, Victoria Duval discovered a passion and a talent for creating prints. She abandoned large-scale projects in favour to build a human-scale universe, where her creations come to life each season. Adapted for sarongs, light sails, full of colour and sweetness, the scarves are obvious to Victoria. Since 2014, Duval has been dedicated to RUE DU DRAGON full time.
As a Parisian, open to the world, Duval travels the roads and seas of the world, to discover and share the beauties and meet different cultures that enrichens her inspirations. She knows the effect that travelling has, regardless of age or origin, is a universal feeling. Her passion for photography makes up the rest: she draws in her memories of travels, captured by the lens, in turns, cutting, combining to find the right design, sublime and exclusive.
Silk chiffon, woven and printed are produced in the silk workshops of Lyon. Large squares of 120 cm sides offering seven designs per collection, the idea to accompany each day of the week, each created in several colours. Large, ideal to adapt scarf one’s own style... bohemian tied around the hair, draped over the shoulders, as a sarong around the waist and of course as an essential fashion accessory around the neck. Each season, unique pieces enrich the collection, such as summer silk tunics, printed patterns that are the identity of Rue du Dragon.
La Méricaine is the story of a French girl, living the American Dream by following her own dreams. Having worked as a designer in the sports fashion industry for many years, Valérie Hernandez decided to continue her life’s journey on her own path. Led by her free spirit and fierce passion, she founded La Méricaine in 2014: a collection of beautiful capes and blankets inspired by the Native American tribes who wear similar heavy wool coats for their entire lives: from birth to marriage until death. The first collection was a true homage to the great outdoors, bringing the adventurous life on the prairies to the city streets and beyond. Made from fleecy wool fabric, La Méricaine capes are incredible to be wrapped in, on cold winter days and give an urban look that gypsy feel.
For its Fall/ Winter 2016-17 collection the French brand stays true to its roots and mixes high fashion with a free spirit that keeps us moving, that keeps us dancing, that keeps us flying. Made of premium fleece wool fabric La Méricaine coats are as cozy as they are classy. Wrap yourself in modern stripes and earthy colors and you will be prepared for whatever journey you might be taking off on. Dress up in the splendid Prince of Wales checked cape and plunge into the night. Or throw on the striped Navy Coat, a new premium style with a longer silhouette and handsome pockets, and enter a world of its own.
Clockwise, from top left; Sprung, Faustine Paris, Balensi, Lagaë
After moving to Paris in the heart of the Roaring Twenties, Alexander Z. Sprung opened his first master furrier workshop. He passed on his passion and knowledge to his children who joined the company at the end of the Second World War. Five brothers who love beauty, women and style. Together, they are dedicated to the manufacture of fur and all materials associated with it, such as leather, cashmere and shearling. Over the years, the family business grows and, in 1961, became the SPRUNG FRERES company leader of the profession in France and with a prominent place in the international market.
In the 1980s, a new generation takes over and emphasized the dynamism and the innovation spirit. A new momentum was given to the company. New century, new lines Fur become lighter, metamorphoses itself: reversible, new coats are worn during the day or for an evening party, the uses are multiplying. With a worldwide presence, SPRUNG FRERES became a figure head of the French fur, mixing tradition with talent and innovation. Allure and graphic effect for a new generation of furs. The latest addition to the Maison ‘SPRUNG FRERES collection plume’ was a great success.
Today, the maison is renewing its identity and artistic direction, merging the prestigious history of Sprung Frères and the contemporary of Collection Plume, together born SPRUNG. The DNA of SPRUNG is an infusion of classic contemporary with a touch of modernity. Fur and shearling apply themselves beyond its norm with cotton and woollen fabric. Colours are subtle, precise and well-studied to enhance the beauty of the materials. Inspiration for Fall Winter 2016/17 is drawn from the rich culture of the Native American and the magnificent landscape of the west. Chimayo patterns make its way into fur creating unexpected effect. New assortment of shearlings meeting technical details and sportswear influence, give a new approach to the classic shearling coats. Sensible in the spirit of the time while respecting the tradition of savoir faire, SPRUNG continues to accompany and beautify women of today and tomorrow.
Passionate about objects and their collection, Faustine Baranowski cultivates the desire to perpetuate treasures inherited from the past, whether in physical form or of knowledge. This culture infuses her creations look of obvious rightness. During her journey working in the world of Parisian trend offices, Baranowski kept the refinement of couture and the spirit of the new.
Her expertise in the field of lingerie explains Baranowski’s sense of subtlety in the treatment of detail. The bucket shape, in particular, evokes a precious jewel box, like the small essential features in the jewellery Baranowski is so fond of. Subtly reflected of her passion for bags and jewellery, her vision of the bucket bag is to be celebrated as a jewellery bag.
It is the combination of a creative and a Parisian workshop guided by a simple philosophy: to give new life to the iconic bag bucket balancing "Made in Paris" heritage and craftsmanship. Heritage, as her adventure begins with a discovery at the Rose Bowl flea market in Los Angeles. As a knowledgeable collector, there Baranowski unearths a large backpack bag shape, the power of promising evocation.
Created before World War II for the United States Navy, the bucket pack bag was designed for its utility, its large capacity and resistance, making it ideal for travel adventures. The discovery of a second-hand rare vintage bag, this time a 1950s leather hunting bag, a cross-reflection on these two historical pieces serve as a the creative concept. The craftsmanship of Monsieur Pierre and his couture workshop makes the realization of the concept possible. Born in 2013, the first models bearing the signature Atelier Faustine Paris are produced. Making the homage to the marine world, the bias of a moderate size and fine workmanship, the form "bucket bag" is chosen. Tribute to inheritance and inimitable cool 1970s style, each bag is a piece for life, an authentic bag, the symbol of a return to basics.
After working with couture designers (in leather good, shoes, fur, embroidery...), José Balensi created his own luxury brand BALENSI PARIS 22 years ago, and receives immediate success that does not go away. He managed to breathe a new dimension to lace, a timeless fabric. Each season, he creates new dresses, also keeping the best sellers but adding incredible new handmade colours.
“Since 1992, when BALENSI Paris was born, the most important thing when I create a dress is the fitting and the quality of fabrics. I put attention to that. Thereafter, I'm looking for the detail that will make the difference from one model to the other. I mix up the colours in order to obtain the right one. And when the dress is done, if it's elegant, it's the woman who wears it that will make the rest, the chic…”
Each season the designer is inspired by a new way to introduce the Calais lace that the brand is known for, new lengths for the dresses, and winter colours to ensure the elegance of the Balensi wearer.
LAGAË is primarily the story of its creator, Gaëlle Labérine, an urban and authentic women, daughter and niece of craftsman jewellers. Labérine has an artistic background and started her career as a graphic. Designer and an artistic director in a Parisian agency, she then has decided to return to her roots by creating her own contemporary jewellery collection. At the age of 30, she plunges herself into the ground of her childhood by combining her creative spirit with her family know-how. She draws her inspiration from her meetings, her travels and her insatiable curiosity. She desires a new, exclusive and outspoken jewellery that is completely unisex.
Lagaë’s collection is handcrafted in France with certified 18 carats gold (750/1000) and 24 carats gold (for raw shots). The models are available in different gold colours (yellow, red or white), and different finishes (polished or brushed). Two models exist in solid silver (925/1000). The leather used is a French calfskin leather with vegetable tanned leather lining. Bracelets are offered in a single or double strap. The gold weight depends on the models from 1 to 15 grams. All jewels is delivered with Lagaë’s packaging: black leather wallet closed by a black leather ribbon.