It’s her second time at Tranoï, but for the past five years, Elia Pradel, founder of Anicet, has been developing her own language around upcycled jewelry. Sourcing her materials from leftover stock from jewelers, she gives the pieces she finds a beautiful second life like this old signet ring she transformed into an ear cuff.
By continuing to work with links and chains the very DNA of her brand and recycled silver, her signature material, she now allows herself to introduce a few precious stones like agates and carnelians to play with color.
Convinced that jewelry transcends its decorative function to become a means of communication, Elia Pradel is delighted that this season, the concept of upcycling has finally become mainstream, and that her creations are now appreciated purely for their aesthetic. Upcycling has become just another piece of information.
We’re always thinking about what the future will look like and what the civilization of the future would like to wear.” That’s how Anthya Tirado, co-founder and creative director of MAM, describes her brand. Founded in 2014 in Barcelona, MAM – short for “mother” – envisions jewelry as a kind of garment or ornament designed to enhance the body. Like adornments, MAM’s pieces wrap around an ear, decorate a nose or a fingernail, or encircle a neck… and it’s a hit. So much so that after opening in Barcelona and Paris, the brand is planning to expand to Mexico and even Italy, and is launching a line of bags. Woven into this ornamental aesthetic, the soft leather bags mold to the body’s shape and blend into the silhouette like a kind of cybernetic extension.
A unique vision and creations for all that’s what Florence Moorhead brings to the table. The young designer, who trained under Elie Top at Lanvin before designing jewelry at Givenchy during Riccardo Tisci’s era and at Saint Laurent under Hedi Slimane, has cultivated a universe that blends gothic and Victorian inspirations with sharp, refined lines.
This powerful mix has captivated the art scene and rappers like Damso and SCH, who are drawn to bold, character-rich pieces. This season, the designer delves even deeper into her archaic creative vein, entering a “castle-core” phase a medieval influence reflected in her chain harness.
The bold O-ring, one of her standout pieces, is now available as a thumb ring, designed to suit both men and women an expression of one of Florence’s core values: creating for all genders equally. Genderless, but never without style.
